Pineapples
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Pineapples
© Denzil Green
Pineapple on your pizza, or not? Even those of our grandmothers who have overcome their suspicions of pizza in general, often draw a line here: for them, Pineapple belongs at the bottom of cakes and on top of squares.
Pineapples don't actually come from trees -- they come from "herb" plants that grow up to 5 feet (1.5 metres) tall and spread out about 4 feet (1.2 metres.) For those who haven't seen one that didn't come in a can (canned Pineapple is actually better for some things: see Cooking Tips below), the Pineapple fruit has a rough skin that is often referred to as its "shell", marked with a criss-cross diamond pattern, and a crown of leaves at the stem end on top. The fruit inside is very sweet.
If you live somewhere warm or have a big hothouse, you can grow your own Pineapple bush -- remove the crown from the Pineapple fruit, dry it for a few days, then plant it in the ground. In about two years, the plant will start to bear fruit.
Here are the five main varieties of Pineapple, listed by size in descending order:
Name | Description | |
Smooth Cayenne | Weighs up to 6 pounds (2.5 kg); yellow or pale yellow inside; high in sugar and acid. Grown in Hawaii, type most often found in North American grocery stores. | |
Kona Sugarloaf | Weighs up to 5 pounds (2 kg) ; white flesh inside, quite sweet; cylindrical. | |
Perambuco | Weighs 2 to 4 pounds (1 to 2 kg) ; fruit inside is either white or pale yellow. | |
Red Spanish | Weighs 2 to 4 pounds (1 to 2 kg); reddish shell, yellow fruit inside, more square shaped. As the fruit ripens, the reddish colour of the rind fades from red to pink. Discovered growing wild amongst coffee plants in Ethiopia. Aka Spanish Red. | |
Natal Queen | Weighs up to 2 pounds (1 kg); yellow inside, medium sweetness, milder taste. |
A good Pineapple at the store or stall will have a bright, leafy crown (don't worry if the leaves are brown on a tip or two.) You should be able to pluck one of the leaves from it without much difficulty. The colour of the fruit's shell should be a golden colour (or reddish, if the Pineapple is a Red Spanish one) tinged with green (if it's all green, it was picked too early, and Pineapples stop ripening once they're picked.)
Colour alone, though, isn't enough indication on its own that the fruit is ripe. Thump it -- it should sound hollow. Then sniff the crown end of it -- if it doesn't have the sweet smell of Pineapple, then look for another one, or bring that one home and plan to let it set for a day or two on the kitchen counter. Though it won't ripen any further in terms of taste and sweetness, it will get juicier and develop a fragrance. If the Pineapple smells fermented, then it's too old; put it back on the shelf and try another one. If a Pineapple is overripe, it will have a "beery" smell.
If you want Pineapple slices, remove the crown, then use a paring knife or a larger serrated knife to cut off the shell all around. Trim off any woody eyes still remaining on the surface of the fruit. Use a big knife to trim the end off, then cut the fruit into slices.
Pineapple slices and wedges are nice grilled with a bit of brown sugar on them.
Pineapples contain a protease enzyme that breaks down proteins, which gelatin contains, so if you are planning to use fresh Pineapple in a jellied recipe or in a marinade, the fruit must be boiled first to destroy the enzyme or your jellied salad will end up jellied mush. It's best instead to use tinned Pineapple for this, as the heat treatment during the canning process has already destroyed the enzyme.
Pineapple juice is sometimes used as a substitute for booze in Christmas Cakes. The cakes end up very flavourful.
1 x 8 oz (250 ml) can of chunked or crushed Pineapple = 3/4 cup (6 oz / 170g) of fruit, 1/4 (2 oz / 4 tablespoons) cup of juice
1 x 20 oz (600 ml) can of chunked or crushed pineapple = 2 cups (16 oz / 450g) of fruit, 1/2 cup (4 oz / 125 ml) of juice
1 cup chunked Pineapple, drained = 8 oz (225g) of fruit
1 x 29 oz (850 ml) can chunked or crushed Pineapple = 3 3/4 cups
1 x 20 oz (600 ml) can of sliced Pineapple =10 slices
1 x 8 (250 ml) oz can of sliced Pineapple = 4 slices
1/2 cup of canned, drained Pineapple pieces or chunks = 3 1/2 oz = 100g
2 slices of canned, drained Pineapple = 2 oz = 50g
1/2 cup fresh, peeled and cored Pineapple, cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces = 2 1/2 oz = 70g
Don't wrap cut Pineapple in tin foil or store it in anything metallic owing to its high acidity. Store leftover fresh Pineapple or opened tinned Pineapple in a plastic container in the refrigerator; use within 4 days. You can also freeze leftover Pineapple; it will be mooshy when you thaw it so use it where appearance won't be a concern -- blender drinks, in a cake or muffins, etc.
You can freeze fresh Pineapple. Peel and chunk it. Squeeze the peel into a cup or over a plate to get the juice out. Pack the fruit in a freezer container or bag, cover with the juice, and freeze. Use another juice if you haven't got enough juice or have already chucked the Pineapple peel into the compost.
Tinned Pineapple can be kept unopened on your shelf for up to a year. Dole is one of the few manufacturers around who actually bothers to put best before dates on their tins, which makes safe storage really easy. Whenever you open a tin of Pineapple, be aware that it is a highly acidic fruit and check the inside of the tin to make sure there are no corrosion marks. If there are, pitch it all (depending on when you bought it, you might even march it back to the store!)
Once opened, don't throw the juice away: store any leftover fruit in the fridge for up to a week covered with the juice, or use the juice for something else -- you can freeze the juice in a small plastic container and work it later into a cake, muffin or bread recipe, swapping out some other liquid such as water for the tastier Pineapple juice.

Dried Pineapple
© Denzil Green
He brought Pineapples back to Europe, where they were a hit. But it wasn't until the late 1600s that Europeans managed to get them to grow in hothouses. So in the meantime, these sweet, exotic fruit were the stuff of wonder and delight in the 1500s and 1600s. The Pineapple forms were reproduced in architecture everywhere, and became familiar on the tops of gate posts, etc. If you've ever wandered through renaissance Florence, you will see the Pineapple motif all over the place. In the early 1600s, King Charles II was even painted receiving a Pineapple as a gift -- clearly a gift fit for a King.
Spanish sailors working in the New World had it easier. They could get fresh Pineapple for free, and did. They noticed that eating Pineapple warded off scurvy (though they didn't know that it was the vitamin C in the fruit that did the trick), so they carried Pineapple with them on their journeys. But tragedies for them -- shipwrecks and bad storms washing things overboard -- were a future blessing for others, as Pineapples from their ships washed ashore and established themselves on Caribbean Islands.
Soon, the Caribbean Islands were exporting Pineapples to Europe, and especially, up to America. Fresh, whole Pineapples were so highly desired by fashionable colonial hostesses in Boston and New York for display on their tables that often times they were only able to rent them for the day. Pineapples appeared everywhere in Colonial decoration to symbolize sophisticated, no-expense spared hospitality.
In 1885 (some sources say 13 June 1884), a Brit named John Kidwell imported a Cayenne Pineapple from Madeira to Hawaii, began growing it there, and within a few years he had successfully canned Pineapple for export to the United States. It wasn't a commercial success, though, as Hawaii was still independent then and its produce was subject to high import tariffs in the US, so he folded his business by 1898. That same year, however, Hawaii was annexed to the United States, removing the tariffs. In that year, two men came to Hawaii with the Pineapple business in mind: Alfred W. Eames, whose company is today known as Del Monte, and James Drummond Dole, whose company is now Dole. (James's cousin, Sanford B. Dole, would become president in 1894 of the brief Hawaiian Republic).
Pineapple was first canned for commercial sale in 1903, by James Dole in Wahiawa, Hawaii. Henry G. Ginaca (1876 - 1918) was hired in 1911 by James Dole to come up with a machine that would enable more efficient canning of Pineapple. At the time, Pineapples were processed by a combination of hand and manual coring machines, yielding a production rate of about 10 to 15 Pineapples being processed per minute. The machine that Ginaca came up with in 1911 raised that rate to 50 per minute, with far less wastage of juice and far less accidentally crushed fruit. The machine wasn't fully put into production, though, until 1919, during which time refinements were tested. The 1919 model allowed 65 pineapples per minute. By the 1990s, the machines in use could process between 75 and 100 pineapples per minute. They are still all called "Ginaca" machines, though, in honour of their inventor.
"The Natal and Eleuthera pineapples were brought to this country from the tropics a few short years ago and are quite a different fruit from the usual pineapples around the stores. Not so different in appearance; different in the eating. These never bite the tongue, but are sweet and mellow. No need to add sugar. The entire fruit is edible, even the core. Juice runs when the knife cuts in."
-- Paddleford, Clementine (1898 - 1967). Food Flashes Column. Gourmet Magazine. March 1950.
Columbus and his crew drew on the Pineapple's resemblance to pine cones when they called it "Pine of the Indies". The English later tacked "apple" onto pine, to give it associations with an already loved fruit.
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Buddha's Hands Citron, Citron, Grapefruit, Kumquats, Lemons, Limau, Limes, Oranges, Pineapples, Pummelo, Tangelos, Yuzu, Zest
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