Marmalade

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Marmalade

Marmalade
© Denzil Green


Marmalade is a clear fruit jelly with citrus rind suspended in it. It is now usually made from bitter oranges such as Seville, though a version made with Rangpur Limes is also quite nice.

The fruit is juiced. To the juice is added water and the skins. The mixture is allowed to sit overnight, then is boiled.

After the boiling, 2/3 of the skins are then discarded. The remaining 1/3 are sliced finely or chopped, and added back in. The mixture is then reboiled until it thickens, then bottled.

Marmalade comes in different cut sizes of peel, such as small shred or large chunk. Real men prefer large chunk.

Cooking Tips
Marmalade reaches its setting point at 220 F / 105 C. But to test if it really will set for you, place a spoonful on a small plate in the freezer for a minute, then run your finger through it. If it isn't thick, and a bit wrinkly on the surface where you ran your finger through, it needs more cooking. Just before bottling, however, let marmalade stand in the pot for 20 minutes, then stir and bottle. This gives the jam time to thicken enough so that the orange in it will be evenly distributed.

You can make Marmalade from frozen oranges (sic). If you have oranges on hand that you're not going to get around to eating, or spot some Seville oranges at the store but don't have time just then to fire up the old jam kettle, you can pop the oranges in a freezer bag and freeze them whole (just wash them first). Thaw them first before beginning your Marmalade recipe. To compensate for any pectin that might have been destroyed during freezing, add to your recipe 1 extra orange per pound (450g) that the recipe calls for.

Equivalents
1 cup = 8 oz = 225g

History
Marmalade evolved from a dessert made in Portugal from quinces. The Portuguese called this dessert "marmelada". They started exporting it to Britain in the 1400s. It was a solid paste, like today's Guava Paste, that you would cut and serve in slices.

Windsor Farm Marmalade

Windsor Farm Marmalade
- © Denzil Green

By the 1700s, it had changed to being a jelly made in Britain from oranges. It was Scotland that developed the spreadable version. By the 1800s, the Scots had switched to using Seville Oranges -- which were cheap, because they were so bitter that no one else wanted them. The French and the Spanish thought they were absolutely mad.

Frank Cooper's Oxford Marmalade was first made in 1874 by Sarah Cooper, wife of Frank Cooper, who owned a small grocery store. Frank liked her Marmalade so much that he decided to sell it -- named after himself, of course. It was sold for decades in small, white earthenware crocks, but now is sold in glass jars. To keep up with the growing demand, a Marmalade factory was opened in Oxford in 1900. Oxford graduates from around the world took home with them a taste for Cooper's Marmalade.

On the day the Titanic sunk, the first class passengers were to have been served Keiller's Dundee Orange Marmalade for breakfast. Reputedly, a passenger named Edwina Trout was also transporting a "Marmalade Machine".

Literature & Lore
A "Marmalade madam" was a prostitute.

"Again the [Frank Cooper] Oxford vintage, this a 1943-pack marmalade for the connoisseur, made only in vintage crop years, matured four to five seasons. The vintage year preceding this was 1933. These marmalades have deeper color, better body, greater richness than the usual year-by-year run." -- Paddleford, Clementine (1898 - 1967). Food Flashes Column. Gourmet Magazine. November 1948.

Language Notes
Comes from the Portuguese word "marmelada" which was a quince paste. "Marmelo" is Portuguese for quince.

Also called:
Confiture d'oranges (French); Orangenkonfitüre (German); Marmellata di arance (Italian); Mermelada de naranja (Spanish) Top...